Caution : This part requires the removal and re-fitment of the primary drive sprocket,  the belt, and realignment of the rear wheel.

Remove the original air duct. (this part is permanently removed from the bike)  (PHOTO 1) photo 1

Remove the stock sprocket cover. (this part is permanently removed from the bike)  (PHOTO 2)photo 2

You will now see the primary drive sprocket. To remove this you will need to slacken off the belt and move the rear wheel forwards. (PHOTO 3)photo 3

Remove the plastic belt guards: (PHOTO 4 AND 5) photo 5phoot 4

Primary drive sprocket removal:   With a screwdriver and a small hammer you must straighten the nut ribs of the primary drive sprocket shown in the (PHOTO 6).photo 6

You may need the help of someone holding the rear brake on to stop the sprocket rotating or you can put the bike in gear. Then using a socket (30MM) and an air gun you can loosen the bolt in the normal anti clockwise direction ( PHOTO 7 ).photo 7

Now you should raise the rear wheel off the ground. We use a bike lift (PHOTO 8).photo 8


Safety : you must make sure the bike is secure from rolling over when raising a wheel off the ground. if you are not sure do not continue.  

Moving the rear wheel forwards:   loosen the rear axle bolt (PHOTO 9).photo 9photo 10

Make a note of the axle adjusters length in order to make it easier to align the wheel later (PHOTO 10).

Using a 22mm socket and a 27 mm spanner on the opposite side you can untighten the axle. The rear wheel can now be pushed forwards about 50 – 70 mm in order to slacken off the belt. Pull gently on the belt and roll the rear sprocket anticlockwise and slowly help the belt over the lip. This should not require a lot of force. If it is very tight then you must push the rear wheel forwards a little more. once it is free from the front and rear sprocket you can just rest it on the pivot point out of the way. (PHOTOS 11-15)photo 11photo 12photo 13photo 14photo 15

With the belt off you can completely remove the primarty drive sprocket (PHOTO 16 )photo 16

Make a note of the face that was intalled outwards so you can put the sprocket back as it came off. Take care to keep the nut and washer safe and make a note of the washer alignment so it can be replaced exactly as it came off.  (PHOTO 17 )photo 17

You will now see 5 bolts. remove each one PHOTOS 18- 22 and then you can remove the cover, (PHOTO 23)  including the rubber part (this cover is permanently removed from the bike)photo 18photo 19photo 20photo 21photo 22photo 23

One of the bolts holds a electrical cable ground. This bolt must be cut and the electrical ground reinstalled. 25 – 29 NM Or you can use a new stainless steel M8 x 15mm bolt. Take care to route the loose cable behind this electrical ground before you put Red loctite on the bolt and re- install. Use as many zip ties as required to secure the cable and stop it from moving to much. (PHOTOS 24 – 27)photo 24photo 25photo 26photo 27

Now you can resintall the primary drive sprocket. To do this you should slide to sprocket back in place. (PHOTO 28)photo 28

clean a little of the factory locite off of the bolt head and put new Red loctite on. (PHOTOS 29-30)photo 29photo 30

Replace the washer and re-tigthen the nut nut by hand. Offer up the belt to the sprocket and again rolling the rear sprocket anti-clockwise you can ease the belt back into place. (PHOTO 31)photo 31

Now you can realign the rear wheel using the measurement you have taken to help. The wheel will roll freely and the belt will track to the inner flange of the primary drive sprocket and settle in a straight line. You can now adjust the drive belt slack (see PHOTO BELOW).  PHOTO 35


When you are happy with the alignment and the belt slack with the axle adjuster locked in place (16NM) you can tigthen the axle to a torque of 150NM. With the help of someone holding the rear brake on you can torque the primary drive sprocket bolt to 140NM.

replace the belt guards. 7NM torque for the bolts.

Now you can move on to installing your brand new cover.

To do this you need to loosen the foot control bracket.(PHOTO 32)photo 32

you do not need to completely remove the controls. just make enough space for the the key to get to the lower bolt head. (PHOTO 33)photo 33

Mount the cover using the spacers to keep the cover away from the sprocket.(PHOTO 34)photo 34

You may need a set of helping hands at this oppoint. Use Red loctite on the bolts supplied and tighten to a torque of 25 -29 NM. the lower bolt is difficult to get a torque wrench on so tighten manually with a medium amount of force.  Now you can re-tighten the forward control bracket to a torque of 48NM-

Be sure to send us a picture of your installation.

DISCLAIMER:   The installation of any aftermarket part may void or otherwise adversely affect your factory warranty. In addition, such installation and use may violate certain european, state and local laws, rules and ordinances as well as other laws when used on motor vehicles operated on public highways, especially in states where pollution laws may apply. Always check european, state, and local laws before modifying your motorcycle. It is the sole and exclusive responsibility of the user to determine the suitability of the product for his or her use, and the user shall assume all legal, personal injury risk, and liability and all other obligations, duties and risks associated therewith.

CAUTION: Do not use harsh chemicals such as brake cleaner, acetone or cutting compunds to clean this cover.


a.    Remove the original cover. keep the stock bolts for re-use.


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