HANDLEBAR EXTENSION (pt7 throttle cable installation)

A “HOW TO GUIDE” for changing handlebars and risers or upgrading front brake lines. 

in progress  for updates check out our facebook album. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=MattBlackCustomDesigns&set=a.3672493856175797

INSTALLATION OF THROTTLE CABLES

The bars and throttle cable were removed from the throttle body in a previous post. So now its time to move on to the installations… new throttle cables are a must when fitting taller bars.. Yamaha make a set specifically for these 6″ taller risers. However whichever extension you choose installation is the same.. first you must remove the stock cables. remove the 2 screws holding the throttle housing in place. Note also the screw at the back of the housing

1

phillips head screwdriver to remove the clamp.

2

with the clamp removed the cables are free but you cant take them out just yet3

open out the housing carefully and take a good look at how the cam sits in the housing. Take reference photos. In particular note how the throttle moves correctly and how it snaps back when you let go of full throttle.

4

once you are happy that you understand how the cam works you can remove the cables.

5

pull the assembly from the bars as shown.6

this is how the throttle cable ends are connected to the cam. note position of stock cam.7

you can ease out the cable ends and release the cam and grip

8

place the new cable ends in . you can now replace the assembly back on the bars and replace the housing you removed in previous steps

9

if at this point you are ready to finish the bike or are only changing the throttle cable. make sure all cables are neatly controlled.

arrange cables neatly.

At the throttle body end we also need to install the cable ends in the correct position. Here you can see the end and the cam i need to engage. This is the return cable which pulls the throttle closed.

15

place cable end in the hole.

18

engage the cable end and cable in the groove of the cam.

16

slot the threaded tube into the holder and tighten enough so it does not fall back out

17

repeat the procedure for the pull cable19

engage the threaded tube into the holder

20

 the green guide here shows an adjustment that tightens the cable (because the end of the cable housing becomes closer to the throttle cam) . ideally you need a little play so the cam will fully close when the trottle is at idle. so adjust until the grip will just move a few millimetres before the cam starts to move.21

in contast the green guide below shows a slack adjustment which means you will have to rotate the throttle grip a lot before the cam begins to work. what you need is the right balance between the two. keep adjusting until the result matches steps the grip motion. shown next

22

below,  the green guide shows the static throttle position. the red line shows the point at which the cam at the throttle body starts to move. 

26

when released from full throttle the grip should snap back closed without any hesitation or sticking.

27

when you are happy with the behaviour of the throttle you should tighten both the lock nuts.

25

 

see part 1 (tank removal) here  https://mbcustoms.eu/2021/02/02/handlebar-extension/

see part 2 (handlebar removal) here 

https://mbcustoms.eu/2021/02/11/handlebar-extension-pt2-handlebar-removal/

see part 3 (measuring and ordering brake lines) here 

https://mbcustoms.eu/2021/02/19/handlebar-extension-pt3-measuring-and-ordering-brake-lines/

see part 4 (re route wiring) here 

https://mbcustoms.eu/2021/02/17/handlebar-extension-pt3-re-route-wiring/

see part 5 (changing steering bearings) here 

https://mbcustoms.eu/2021/03/10/handlebar-extension-pt5-changing-steering-bearings/

see part 6 (MB bushing kit) here 

(opens in a new tab)

and follow us on https://www.facebook.com/MattBlackCustomDesigns

HANDLEBAR EXTENSION (pt6 solid handlebar bushings)

A “HOW TO GUIDE” for changing handlebars and risers or upgrading front brake lines. 

in progress  for updates check out our facebook album. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=MattBlackCustomDesigns&set=a.3672493856175797

MB SOLID HANDLEBAR BUSHING KIT

In the previous section we changed the headstock bearing and therefore already have the top clamp removed. If you are not doing that then its possible to change the risers with the top clamp in place. If thats the case then remove the bolt from under the clamp to release the risers. you may have already seen the taller the risers in previous posts to measure up for the brake lines. this is what you need to do.

1

we removed the top clamp in the previous post so check out step 5. links at the end..

2

because we are changing to taller risers you will need to install our aluminium bushing set. this eliminates the play in the bars. You will need to press the old bushings out.

3

This is what the stock bushing looks like once pressed out.

4

The MB bushing kit. This kit is specifically for the harley size riser bolts as we changed the risers.

5

MB bushing kit … Please feel free to message us if you are interested. At the moment we are making them to order.

6

MB bushing kit. can be supplied for harley size riser bolts or straight replacements for the stock size. message us for more info and pricing if you are interested.

7

press in the MB bushing kit

8

These bolts are for harley risers

10

Harley bolts are imperial not metric.

11

The stock riser have a 14mm shaft and are secured with an M12 1.25 nut.

12

if you have taken off the top clamp to do the bearing you will have the manual to follow the re insatllation procedure. If you have not then add some blue loctite to the harley size bolt and push through the bushing and screw into the riser. dont fully tightme down until you have the bars and bar clamps in place. Once the assembly is together you can tighten the bolts to the correct torque. The torque will depend on whether you have the stock risers or different ones. Now the bars are in place we can rebuild the front end including fitting the new brake line and fittings , throttle and clutch cable. see you in the next post

15

 

see part 1 (tank removal) here  https://mbcustoms.eu/2021/02/02/handlebar-extension/

see part 2 (handlebar removal) here 

https://mbcustoms.eu/2021/02/11/handlebar-extension-pt2-handlebar-removal/

see part 3 (measuring and ordering brake lines) here 

https://mbcustoms.eu/2021/02/19/handlebar-extension-pt3-measuring-and-ordering-brake-lines/

see part 4 (re route wiring) here 

https://mbcustoms.eu/2021/02/17/handlebar-extension-pt3-re-route-wiring/

see part 5 (changing steering bearings) here 

https://mbcustoms.eu/2021/03/10/handlebar-extension-pt5-changing-steering-bearings/

 

(opens in a new tab)

and follow us on https://www.facebook.com/MattBlackCustomDesigns

HANDLEBAR EXTENSION (pt5 changing steering bearings)

A “HOW TO GUIDE” for changing handlebars and risers or upgrading front brake lines. 

in progress  for updates check out our facebook album. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=MattBlackCustomDesigns&set=a.3672493856175797

HEAD BEARING CHANGE

we decided to improve the front end and try to eliminate the ” speed wobble” to do this we will change the steering bearings. We do NOT recommend you do this at home unless you have some experience of setting bearing preload and some specialist tools but if you would like to see how we do it then here it is. you will of course need to remove the front wheel. so first ,caliper off.

CALIPER OFF

loosen pinch bolts and remove the axle. roll wheel out. the manual (which you should have) explains in detail , we are just going fast to get to the bearing.

axle out

remove the abs sensor using a special automatic wrench

remove abs sensor

remove the fender. 4 bolts , two on each side.

remove fender

forks are now free ro be removed

wheel and fender off

brake line support bracket

brake line support clamp

remove indicator support bolts

remove indicator holders

careful with the indicator electrical connectors.

indicator electrics

loosen the top clamp nut. dont remove yet

remove top nut

loosen lower clamp pinch bolts

lower pinch bolts

loosen upper clamp pinch bolts. be ready to ease out the fork as it will now be loose.

upper pinch bolt

repeat for the other side.. you can now remove the top nut and top clamp.

forks out

this is what you should see when removing top clamp

removed top clamp

tap the lock nut free. should not be on very tight.

tap top nut free

tap preload nut free. note position of the washer. hold teh lowe clamp because th estem can now fall through

tap lower nut free and remove

remove the dust cover

dust cover

steering stem can now be pulled through

steering stem out

stock bearing

stock bearing

 stock bearing race needs to be removed.

stock bearing race

add heat

heat can help

you will need a race remover for the top race. not recommded to try to remove without it.

mp tool

we made a tool for the lower race

make tool

add heat

heat the lower race

place tool thorugh steering tube

place in top

there are two grooves in the tube to get to the race. place tool in one and tap a little from the top

groove for tool

 

lternate between the holes to gently tap out the race. needs to come out in line with the surfaces so as not to damage them. once both are out clean up all surfaces.

hammer out

this is the new bearing set

bearings

bearing races are different sizes so you cant mix them up. very gently tap so the race is as inline  as possible. repeat for the lower race.

tap square

this is the race press tool we made. this is placed through the steering tube and as you tighten the nut the races are pulled into the tube. you can put the races in the freezer and heat the steering tube to aid fitment. however when pressing you must press in straight. any twist will damage the surfaces and may ruin your frame. if as you press in it becomes twisted remove the press and genlty tap the race until it lines up again. dont allow it to twist more than 0.5mm on one side so be very careful and measure any twisting as you go.

race press tool

once completed the races should sit perfectly in the steering tube. if its not right continue to press until it is. you cannot align them with the bearings so it must be perfect now.

after seating

lower race seated

lower seated

we opted to cut off the steering stem race. use a dremel and cut at an angle shown. dont rush. no need to go all the way though. 

dremel

this is about how long it should be and how deep.

not all the way

use a screwdriver to crack the race. dont hit it hard. if it does not crack use the dremel to make the cut longer not deeper

screwdriver to ease out

when the race cracks it will slide off.

crack

clean up the surfaces and install the dust cover

bearing in place

we have our press to install the bearing. You can try to freeze the stem and warm the bearing.Use a larger tube to tap into place.

press

bearing seated.

bearing in place

grease well

grease up the

grease the race aswell.

grease race

grease top race and bearing

top race

feed in steering stem and had tighten the preload nut . dont forget the top dust covers

re instll steering stem

The manual explains how to set the torque on the preload nut. however the All balls bearings are a different design to stock.
This is why we dont recommend you do this at home unless you know how to set the preload of this type of bering. Once preload is set and the locknut is in place you can rebuild the front end. just retrace your steps.

re fit forks

 

see part 1 (tank removal) here  https://mbcustoms.eu/2021/02/02/handlebar-extension/

see part 2 (handlebar removal) here 

https://mbcustoms.eu/2021/02/11/handlebar-extension-pt2-handlebar-removal/

(opens in a new tab)

and follow us on https://www.facebook.com/MattBlackCustomDesigns

HANDLEBAR EXTENSION (pt3 measuring and ordering brake lines)

A “HOW TO GUIDE” for changing handlebars and risers or upgrading front brake lines. 

in progress  for updates check out our facebook album. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=MattBlackCustomDesigns&set=a.3672493856175797

MEASURING AND ORDER BRAKE LINES

start by removing the abs block bracket. left side

1

loosen the right bolt

2

right side bracket lower bolt

3

ease out the electrical connector, if not already removed previously

4

loosen left side lower bolt 5

right side cable guides.

6

ease out the cables if not already out after removing throttle cable.
7
 
release all the cables.
8
 
this is the brake line coming from the master cylinder.
9

 pull up to release.

10

the main harness going to the dash and light

11

pull up the harness to release from the guide.

12

cut the cable tie to get so you can remove the bracket

13

you should now remove the bracket.

35

this is the abs adapter number 1

15

remove the bolt

16

this will release the bracket on the left side

17

this is the flare connection for the brake line coming from the master cylinder. undo this connection if you are installing the MB brake line kit (coming soon)

20

this is abs adapter number 2 that goes to the brake caliper. undo this connection if you are installing the MB brake line kit (coming soon)

18

this is the main abs connection just ahead of the seat on the left side of the bike.

21

red line is coming from the master cylinder. green line is going to the caliper.

22

if you are not installing the MB brake line kit (coming soon) you can remove the brake lines from here.

23

use some paper towels as the lines will have fluid in them.

24

the flare connection removed.

25

for this project we will only change the line coming from the master cylinder. stay tuned for our own build where we will install the MB brake line kit for both lines.

26

once the flare conection is removed you can pull the line through

27

measure this length if you are not using the MB kit. 28

We however have changed the riser so the lengths will be different. so we temporarily fitted the bars and tied some cable to the master cylinder.

30

put a little tape about 30mm from the banjo hole., and feed a nice loop through the triple tree where you want the brake line to go.

31

line up the cable with the path you want your cable to take.

32

put another piece of tape about 20mm from the flare connection

33

measure the distance. You can now order the brake line closest to that length along with the banjo connection and copper washers for the master cylinder and the adapter for the flare connection. if you are changing the line to the caliper you can repeat this process laying the cable and measuring. if you are installing the MB brake line kit then you will only need to measure anything if you are changing your risers as all you will need to upgrade your lines will be provided, join us next time and we will be changing the risers and the steering bearings and of course re installing the lines.

34

 

see part 1 (tank removal) here  https://mbcustoms.eu/2021/02/02/handlebar-extension/

see part 2 (handlebar removal) here 

https://mbcustoms.eu/2021/02/11/handlebar-extension-pt2-handlebar-removal/

(opens in a new tab)

and follow us on https://www.facebook.com/MattBlackCustomDesigns

HANDLEBAR EXTENSION (pt4 re route wiring)

A “HOW TO GUIDE” for changing handlebars and risers or upgrading front brake lines. 

in progress  for updates check out our facebook album. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=MattBlackCustomDesigns&set=a.3672493856175797

RE-ROUTE ELECTRICAL WIRING

remove the bracket that holds the electric cables in place. there are 3 bolts. two at the top and one at the bottom.

1

second bolt. third botl connects to head of the engine

2

original routing of left hand cables3

oosen the coil holder. no need to take the coils out just loosen the bracket to make a little room.

4

ease the left hand cables though to the right hand side. you may have to snip away some cable ties..

5

unclip the right hand connector from the bracket

6 half

this is the right hand connector that can be fed through to the left side.

7

feed the cable under the steel ABS line.

8

put the bracket back on.

2

put the coil bracket back in place4

this is the final positions for the cables on the left once the bracket is back in place.

9

the final positions of the cables on the right once the coil bracket is back in place.

10

see part 1 (tank removal) here  https://mbcustoms.eu/2021/02/02/handlebar-extension/

see part 2 (handlebar removal) here 

https://mbcustoms.eu/2021/02/11/handlebar-extension-pt2-handlebar-removal/

(opens in a new tab)

and follow us on https://www.facebook.com/MattBlackCustomDesigns

HANDLEBAR EXTENSION (pt2 handlebar removal)

A “HOW TO GUIDE” for changing handlebars and risers or upgrading front brake lines. 

in progress  for updates check out our facebook album. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=MattBlackCustomDesigns&set=a.3672493856175797

STEP 1

REMOVAL OF HANDLE BARS

First you need to remove the cables. This is a stock XV950 abs. the racer is different but the principle is the same.

1

The electrical cables should have enough play to ease them out.

2

the same process on the right side

3

You can now access the bolts that hold on the speedo mount. remove bolts from both sides.

4

 You have access now to the riser bolts for later

7

You don’t need to cut the cable ties.. put a screwdriver in the lock and you can slide them out. release all the cables.

8

Now to remove the clutch cable. Loosen the clutch cable tension. rotate all the way in.

9

Line up the slots

10

Now you can ease the cable through.

11

Pull the cable end down to release it.

12

next up are the throtlle cables. can be removed from the bar end or throttle body. We are changing the cables so we will do the throttle body end first. 

13

loosen the throttle cable tension. this will make the next step easier.

14

 loosen the cable nuts to remove the cable from the cam.

21

this is the cable end you need to release.

13

cable end released

b

second cable end released.

c

next up are the electrical cables. disconnect right side electrical connection.

15

these are the left side electrical connections. they are mounted on a metal plate.

16

use a screwdriver to ease out the clip.

18

push the screwdriver down to release the clip.

17

seperate the connector 1. this is the clip you need to release.

19

seperate connector 2. this is the slot you need to put the screwdriver into.

20

remove the headlight mount to create room for cables to pass.

22

right side mount bolt to be removed. Wera tools fit perfect!!

23

you need to release the cables from all the cable guides

24

more cable guides. just ease out cables where required

25

check left side electrical connections are clear

26

check right side electrics are clear and throttle cables can pass through the triple tree. pull clutch cable through the tree. no need to disconnect clutch at the engine end.

27

remove the brake banjo bolt. have plenty of paper towels ready or a pot to catch the fluid. dont spill dot 4 on your paint. if you do clean immediately. cover the brake line with tape and tape in place to prevent drips. dont pull the brake lever.

29

now you can release the riser bolts and remove the bars.

28

have a bench prepared for you to put your bars.. dont empty the brake reservoir until you are ready to install. just cover the hole to control the drips. next step is to prepare for the new risers..

31

you have completed thos section.. well done if you made it here..

see part 1 (tank removal) here  https://mbcustoms.eu/2021/02/02/handlebar-extension/(opens in a new tab)

and follow us on https://www.facebook.com/MattBlackCustomDesigns

HANDLEBAR EXTENSION (pt1 tank removal)

A “HOW TO GUIDE” for changing handlebars and risers or upgrading front brake lines. 

in progress  for updates check out our facebook album.  https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=MattBlackCustomDesigns&set=a.3672493856175797

STEP 1

REMOVAL OF FUEL TANK

Remove the seat.  Whatever you do dont drop the bolt. You will never see it again!!! our bolt required a 10mm socket to remove it.

remove seat

Unfasten the rear tank mount boltsrear tank bolts

fuel line 1 needs to be unclipped.  Pull out the clamp to free the connector. Be prepared for some residual fuel to leak.

fuel line 1a

fuel line 1b

fuel line 1c

Disconnect fuel line 2 at the front . be careful with the 90deg plastic bend.

fuel line 2

Unclip the fuel pump electrical connection. the blue plastic one shown here.

fuel pump electric

diconnect the whit electrical connection at the back of the fuela tank and the breather marked in red

rear white connector

breather

pull tank backwards off the bike and you will be left with this.

right side

left side

stay tiune for the next step   and follow us on https://www.facebook.com/MattBlackCustomDesigns

“WHISTLEFIRE” installation

XV950 whistlefire air cleaner PART FITMENT INSTRUCTIONS…

step 1

Remove the stock air filter..

start by removing the four outer bolts.

remove the stock air filter element. no bolts to remove here

take off the back plate and the front cylinder support

disconnect the cranckase breather and remove the gaskets which can be reused.

this is what you will see when the filter is removed

step 2

installation of the “whistlefire” flange adapter

install the adapter flange using the stock gaskets. tighten the 3 bolts. use medium loctite

install the back plate . you can use gasket sealant if you like but it is not required. tighten the 3 bolts. use medium loctite. dont forget to reconnect the crankcase breather.

step 3

filter element and front plate

place the filter element , bevelled side outwards. note the filter support can be installed at this time

place the front plate on the element but dont let go . it will not stay on so be ready with the top bolt and spacer to install immediately.

place bolts and spacer in by hand first

insert all bolts in and ease the front plate in untill all bolts are seated. you can use medium loctite if you wish.

installation is now complete. start the motor and enjoy

installation of power commander. coming soon

“BLACKLINE” TIMING COVER FITTING

 

NOTE BEFORE YOU BEGIN… extreme caution must be taken when removing the bolts for the timing cover. if you drop a bolt in the engine you will need a complete rebuild!! loosen all bolts carefully, remove the top bolt first and then all the other bolts before you allow the cover to come free from the engine.

DO NOT present the new cover to the engine with any bolts in . put the new cover on the engine and hold it it by hand then put the top bolt in first. Then put all bolts in by hand and hand tighten until you are sure that the bolts are correctly engaged in the threads. we have found an angle on the lower left bolt on some models… (this can be helped by running a 7 mm drill bit through the lower left hole to give you some clearance when installing) Only after hand tigtening the bolts should you use a wrench.. loctite is not required on those bolts but if you want to use it its not a problem.

you will need to remove the air filter…

remove any upper engine guards. (depends on model)  IMG_2866

remove the two plastic covers on top the the cylinders see picsIMG_2695

you will then see the brackets that hold them on. These can be trimmed or left as is depending on how you want the bike to look. Models will differ.

Some models the brackets cannot be replaced or after trimming some of the funcionality will be changed.

i did not trim the whole bracket on the left so i could still use the left knee guard for example. but we have the racer model..

remove brackets and trim. see pics

once you have removed all brackets and have space to remove cover.

Start by loosening all bolts. Only a quarter turn each in a cross pattern . top then bottom left then bottom right then top left and top right etc.. continue until no pressure on the gasket and then remove all. top bolt first.top bolt first
Keep all bolts away from the engine. do not have any bolts or any tools or any objects in your hands when removing covers. immediately cover the hole with paper towel to prevent debris from falling in. keep gasket and bolts as they can be reused. clean the bolts of any loctite that may have been used by the factory. clean the bolt holes but NOT before you have covered the timing chain hole.exposed timing chain

installation of cover should be done with extreme care . Sandwich the gasket with the cover against the engine and spin in the top bolt by hand.. followed by all the rest. The bolts can be a little tight so DO NOT force the bolt into a hole. see notes before you begin. spin them gently in by hand and then follow up with a wrench. loctite can be used but it is not essential. some models have an angle on the lower holes so clearance can be tight. this can be helped by running a 7mm drill bit through the lower holes on the cover. the holes are currently drilled at just over 6mminstall new cover

Torque the bolts to 10nm. in a cross pattern.

now you can check the plastic cover bracket to see which parts you can cut. you may chose not to cut anything. plastic covers can be reinstalled on the opposite side but may need to be cut depending on model.

re install the air filter.

whilst we have not had any problems with the timing cover set the design inevitably carries a risk during installation and use. it is a non standard part so it will void your warranty if it is installed. we can only recommend this product if you accept that you install at your own risk..

Be sure to send us a picture of your installation.engine guard left side

DISCLAIMER:   The installation of any aftermarket part may void or otherwise adversely affect your factory warranty. In addition, such installation and use may violate certain european, state and local laws, rules and ordinances as well as other laws when used on motor vehicles operated on public highways, especially in states where pollution laws may apply. Always check european, state, and local laws before modifying your motorcycle. It is the sole and exclusive responsibility of the user to determine the suitability of the product for his or her use, and the user shall assume all legal, personal injury risk, and liability and all other obligations, duties and risks associated therewith.

CAUTION: Do not use harsh chemicals such as brake cleaner, acetone or cutting compunds to clean this cover.

“BLACKLINE” ENGINE COVER FITTING

XV950 BLACKLINE PART FITMENT INSTRUCTIONS…

“BLACKLINE” LEFT COVER:

a.    Remove the original cover. keep the stock bolts for re-use.

b.    you will need to remove some material from 2 spigots that remain from the manufacturing process. (see photo ) 1.1.  only remove enough material so that cover can sit flat on the 3 bolt surfaces

photo1.1spigots

c. you can now install the new cover using the stock bolts IMG_2083

“BLACKLINE” RIGHT COVERS:

a.    Remove the original coverS. keep the stock bolts for re-use.RIGHT SMALL 2RIGHT LARGE 1

b) Clean up the inside surfaces.RIGHT LARGE 2

c)  use a little bit of medium threadlock on al the bolts.RIGHT SMALL 3

d) tighten the bolts firm but dont overdo it RIGHT LARGE 3RIGHT SMALL 4

dont forget to send us a picture of your bike.RIGHT LARGE 5