a)   Remove the stock bolts from the headlamp

grill 1

b) offer up the grill to the cover and test fit the bolts. Some bolts fitted as standard are different from country to country. The bolts that work best are M5 x 25  fine pitch 0.8 as shown by our pictures.

grill 2grill 3

C) when you are happy with the fit tighten the bolts. you can use a little medium threadlock . grill 4

dont forget to send us a picture of your install…   grill 5




Caution : This part requires the removal and re-fitment of the primary drive sprocket,  the belt, and realignment of the rear wheel.

Remove the original air duct. (this part is permanently removed from the bike)  (PHOTO 1) photo 1

Remove the stock sprocket cover. (this part is permanently removed from the bike)  (PHOTO 2)photo 2

You will now see the primary drive sprocket. To remove this you will need to slacken off the belt and move the rear wheel forwards. (PHOTO 3)photo 3

Remove the plastic belt guards: (PHOTO 4 AND 5) photo 5phoot 4

Primary drive sprocket removal:   With a screwdriver and a small hammer you must straighten the nut ribs of the primary drive sprocket shown in the (PHOTO 6).photo 6

You may need the help of someone holding the rear brake on to stop the sprocket rotating or you can put the bike in gear. Then using a socket (30MM) and an air gun you can loosen the bolt in the normal anti clockwise direction ( PHOTO 7 ).photo 7

Now you should raise the rear wheel off the ground. We use a bike lift (PHOTO 8).photo 8


Safety : you must make sure the bike is secure from rolling over when raising a wheel off the ground. if you are not sure do not continue.  

Moving the rear wheel forwards:   loosen the rear axle bolt (PHOTO 9).photo 9photo 10

Make a note of the axle adjusters length in order to make it easier to align the wheel later (PHOTO 10).

Using a 22mm socket and a 27 mm spanner on the opposite side you can untighten the axle. The rear wheel can now be pushed forwards about 50 – 70 mm in order to slacken off the belt. Pull gently on the belt and roll the rear sprocket anticlockwise and slowly help the belt over the lip. This should not require a lot of force. If it is very tight then you must push the rear wheel forwards a little more. once it is free from the front and rear sprocket you can just rest it on the pivot point out of the way. (PHOTOS 11-15)photo 11photo 12photo 13photo 14photo 15

With the belt off you can completely remove the primarty drive sprocket (PHOTO 16 )photo 16

Make a note of the face that was intalled outwards so you can put the sprocket back as it came off. Take care to keep the nut and washer safe and make a note of the washer alignment so it can be replaced exactly as it came off.  (PHOTO 17 )photo 17

You will now see 5 bolts. remove each one PHOTOS 18- 22 and then you can remove the cover, (PHOTO 23)  including the rubber part (this cover is permanently removed from the bike)photo 18photo 19photo 20photo 21photo 22photo 23

One of the bolts holds a electrical cable ground. This bolt must be cut and the electrical ground reinstalled. 25 – 29 NM Or you can use a new stainless steel M8 x 15mm bolt. Take care to route the loose cable behind this electrical ground before you put Red loctite on the bolt and re- install. Use as many zip ties as required to secure the cable and stop it from moving to much. (PHOTOS 24 – 27)photo 24photo 25photo 26photo 27

Now you can resintall the primary drive sprocket. To do this you should slide to sprocket back in place. (PHOTO 28)photo 28

clean a little of the factory locite off of the bolt head and put new Red loctite on. (PHOTOS 29-30)photo 29photo 30

Replace the washer and re-tigthen the nut nut by hand. Offer up the belt to the sprocket and again rolling the rear sprocket anti-clockwise you can ease the belt back into place. (PHOTO 31)photo 31

Now you can realign the rear wheel using the measurement you have taken to help. The wheel will roll freely and the belt will track to the inner flange of the primary drive sprocket and settle in a straight line. You can now adjust the drive belt slack (see PHOTO BELOW).  PHOTO 35


When you are happy with the alignment and the belt slack with the axle adjuster locked in place (16NM) you can tigthen the axle to a torque of 150NM. With the help of someone holding the rear brake on you can torque the primary drive sprocket bolt to 140NM.

replace the belt guards. 7NM torque for the bolts.

Now you can move on to installing your brand new cover.

To do this you need to loosen the foot control bracket.(PHOTO 32)photo 32

you do not need to completely remove the controls. just make enough space for the the key to get to the lower bolt head. (PHOTO 33)photo 33

Mount the cover using the spacers to keep the cover away from the sprocket.(PHOTO 34)photo 34

You may need a set of helping hands at this oppoint. Use Red loctite on the bolts supplied and tighten to a torque of 25 -29 NM. the lower bolt is difficult to get a torque wrench on so tighten manually with a medium amount of force.  Now you can re-tighten the forward control bracket to a torque of 48NM-

Be sure to send us a picture of your installation.

DISCLAIMER:   The installation of any aftermarket part may void or otherwise adversely affect your factory warranty. In addition, such installation and use may violate certain european, state and local laws, rules and ordinances as well as other laws when used on motor vehicles operated on public highways, especially in states where pollution laws may apply. Always check european, state, and local laws before modifying your motorcycle. It is the sole and exclusive responsibility of the user to determine the suitability of the product for his or her use, and the user shall assume all legal, personal injury risk, and liability and all other obligations, duties and risks associated therewith.

CAUTION: Do not use harsh chemicals such as brake cleaner, acetone or cutting compunds to clean this cover.


a.    Remove the original cover. keep the stock bolts for re-use.





compete technical overview of why we build cafe racers the way we do.

add lightness


Every kilo lost on a motorcycle will make a substantial difference to three critical attributes on a motorcycle: Acceleration , Braking and Steering or handling.
Acceleration can be improved by modifications to the engine. Steering and handling can be improved by installing new shocks. Braking can be improved by fitting better pads and disks but here is why our philosophy at Matt Black starts with shedding weight first.

Motorcycle A weighs ( X )195kg and has ( Y ) 70hp the owner decides to add 10 hp so now he or she owns a 195kg motorcycle that has 80 hp.

Motocyle B starts at the same 195 kg and 70hp. but the owner decides to remove 15kg of weight from the bike instead.. therefore the owner now has a bike that weighs ( X1 ) 180kg but still has the same 70 hp.

What would you expect the effect to be?
let me explain………the owner of motorcycle A will go a little faster but will steer and brake the same. The owner of motorcycle B will go a little bit faster but the bike will steer and handle better aswell. The message is clear, save weight and you go a bit faster with the free bonus of steering and handling improvements. How much you say? Well we can make the calculation to compare the equivalent HP gain by shedding those 15 kilos…

it works like this: we know that motorcycle A has added 10 horsepower. was it worth it?

original bike weight 195( X ) / 70( Y ) = 2.78 ( PW1 ) this is the kilos per horsepower

new bike weight 180( X1 ) / 70( Y ) = 2.57 ( PW2 ) this is the new kilos per horsepower

original weight 195 ( X ) / 2.57 ( PW 2) = 75.88 ( NW ) this to show the horspower you would have if you wanted to maintain the new kilos per horsepower figure of 2.57 if you did not change the weight of the bike.

(NW ) 75.88 – 70( Y ) = 5,88 Eqivalent hp gain.
So the owner of motorcycle B has gained the equivalent of about 6 hp by removing or changing items. No expensive engine changes. Remember however the motorcycle now also steers better and brakes better for free.

Which parts should you change will give you the most effective weight loss? For that we need to see how weight affects a motorcycle…. tune in next time ….

Un-sprung weight is the mass of the suspension , wheels and other components directly connected to them that is not supported by the suspension. Sprung weight is the motorcycles total mass that is supported above the suspension and would include the chassis, the engine, its components and the weight of the rider. Hybrid weight is the approximated masses of the forks the shock springs and suspension fluid.

What effect does unsprung mass have on the motorcycle?
This is the mass that the suspension is constantly trying to keep in stable contact with the road. The suspension is compressing and rebounding in a constant battle and the more mass it has to battle with the slower the overall mass reacts to say a bump in the road. A motorcycle benefits from a lower unsprung mass because it allows the suspension to react faster to any bumps and keep the unsprung mass in contact with the road more often. This gives the rider confidence because the bike will react and moves as expected and desired . In addition the wheels and brake disks require power to not only move forwards but also to rotate. This creates a gyroscopic force that keeps the bike stable in a straight line. So more wheel weight gives more stability, but as we have already seen we want to reduce weight, so clearly a balance must be struck. The front wheel weight is even more important than the rear because it is responsible for steering the bike. Steering happens because the wheels is moved off the centre line. Less rotating mass means the gyroscopic forces are less and the wheel has a lower moment of inertia.
The further away the un sprung mass is from the centre of gravity the more effect it will have so those parts should be looked at first. then you can start to move closer to the centre.

lets start with the wheels…
Modern superbikes have the lightest wheels that the manufacturer can make on a reasonable budget. However cafe racers are based on a more classic style and therefore the base bikes have a different design intent and thus they dont have super light wheels fitted by the factory. The sportser for example is not a track day monster that is built for 1.40 around Jerez. It is however full of character and at its heart is a great bullet proof engine that packs a punch.L1005758 The standard wheels then are not superlight magnesium or aluminium spoked rims. Therefore when you do put lighter wheels on a bike like the sportster you can begin to see the potential that the motor has to deliver an exciting ride.
A standard sportster 883R weighs in at 265kg compared to 199kg for a Yamaha R1 for example. You can already guess that there is room for improvement but lets stick with the wheels for now. Sporster 883R wheels combined weight is 15kg. A set of Kineo rims weigh 10Kg. A set of BST carbon fibre rims weigh an astonishing 5kg

whats next?
Well you can install lighter brake calipers and rotors ( take a look at the next section ), then you can install a lightened rear swing arm. Tires are often not considered as a weight saving opportunity but their weight is a crucial part of a tire manufacturers design intent.
The fork legs are considered part of the unsprung weight although other parts of the fork are classed as hybrid weight. A factrory 883R the forks are of a more traditional design so they have heavier fork legs. If you change them for more modern upside down forks you are in effect changing the majority of the fork weight from unpsrung to sprung. Overall we might not change the fork weight but we can change the way it affects the handling of the bike. The larger diameter of the upside down forks also provide greater stiffness.


Uprating the brakes is a major part of the cafe racer philosophy. Dual calipers and disks should be your goal and if you want the best possible braking performance then look no further than the current crop of superbikes… they are fitted with radial calipers, huge disks and now ABS systems…

How do we bring that technology to a sportster from Harley Davidson?
The 883R has dual disks fitted as standard so the first option options we have available to us is to change the brake disks and the pad material. There are many manufacturers of brake disks that will fit the sportster and one of the obvious ways to get better braking is to increase the diameter of the disk. We can provide a kit that increase the size of the disk to 320mm but this will affect the operation of a standard ABS system. The diameter of the standard disk is a great starting point though so if you were to change them for the same size Galfer Wave® then you will feel the difference immediately.L1005460
Galfer also do a wide range of brake pads that you can choose from to suit the kind of riding you like to do. Their semi metallic organic pads are designed as a workhorse that are long lasting with little wear on the disk but still give a good feel They also make kevlar pads which provide a lot of fade free power and are especially good in dry conditions. Sintered pads are designed to cope with moderately aggressive street riding and can withstand the high tempuratures of hard use and you can choose different compounds to suit trackdays or street

The next step to consider is the caliper. Any reduction in weight is the main priority. Brembo make a set of axial calipers especially for sportsters that fit direclty onto the bike. These are lighter than the standard axial calipers and are slightly stiffer due to the billet aluminium construction compared to cast. Braking performance is improved but you can go a little further.
Radial calipers offer the route to greater stiffness which improves the mechanical action of the pad on the disk but you will have add an adpator to fit to the forks.


You could also go to the next step which is to invest in a wholeL1005946.jpg new set of forks that allow you to bolt on radial calipers and big disks straight away. The increase in torsional stifness and the improvement in the leading edge of the pad position in a monoblock radial caliper improves feel , power and will satisfy even the most demanding fast rider. On our top of the range Sportster kit we fit Ohlins FG424 forks with Brembo GP4RX calipers. this combination provides second to none handling and braking performance.
Do not overlook your brake fluid. DOT 4 and 5 are hydroscopic fluids which means they absorb water. Water in the fluid will reduce its boiling temperature and can allow oxidation in the braking system that can destroy vital parts. Change the fluid regularly and only top up in an emergency.


Braided brake lines are a vital part of our performance upgrade philosophy. Not only do they improve the look of the bike they also improve braking feel and power. Braided lines are much stronger than the standard rubber hoses. this means that they dont swell under pressure, transfering maximum fluid pressure to where it is required , at the pad. They also prevent fade over time for the same reason. Rubber hoses tend to lose their ability to return to their origninal shape after repeated use so they must be replaced regularly if you want to maintain that confidence inspiring sense of feel and power. We offer an 883R brake upgrade kit which includes everything you need to change your standard rubber hoses to braided hoses from Goodridge.


cartridge kits or complete new forks, rear shock upgrades

TYRES ………… where the rubber meets the road….
Clearly there are many tyre manufactrures competing for customers and even more types of tyre that you can fit to your bike. As we saw when looking at brake pads a lot despends

RIDING POSITION …. clipons baby, countersteering is easier with clipons, and you will have more control as your weight is lower and further forward


MORE POWER ……….. after you have all the above then add HP sauce….