A “HOW TO GUIDE” for changing handlebars and risers or upgrading front brake lines.
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HEAD BEARING CHANGE
we decided to improve the front end and try to eliminate the ” speed wobble” to do this we will change the steering bearings. We do NOT recommend you do this at home unless you have some experience of setting bearing preload and some specialist tools but if you would like to see how we do it then here it is. you will of course need to remove the front wheel. so first ,caliper off.
loosen pinch bolts and remove the axle. roll wheel out. the manual (which you should have) explains in detail , we are just going fast to get to the bearing.
remove the abs sensor using a special automatic wrench
remove the fender. 4 bolts , two on each side.
forks are now free ro be removed
brake line support bracket
remove indicator support bolts
careful with the indicator electrical connectors.
loosen the top clamp nut. dont remove yet
loosen lower clamp pinch bolts
loosen upper clamp pinch bolts. be ready to ease out the fork as it will now be loose.
repeat for the other side.. you can now remove the top nut and top clamp.
this is what you should see when removing top clamp
tap the lock nut free. should not be on very tight.
tap preload nut free. note position of the washer. hold teh lowe clamp because th estem can now fall through
remove the dust cover
steering stem can now be pulled through
stock bearing
stock bearing race needs to be removed.
add heat
you will need a race remover for the top race. not recommded to try to remove without it.
we made a tool for the lower race
add heat
place tool thorugh steering tube
there are two grooves in the tube to get to the race. place tool in one and tap a little from the top
lternate between the holes to gently tap out the race. needs to come out in line with the surfaces so as not to damage them. once both are out clean up all surfaces.
this is the new bearing set
bearing races are different sizes so you cant mix them up. very gently tap so the race is as inline as possible. repeat for the lower race.
this is the race press tool we made. this is placed through the steering tube and as you tighten the nut the races are pulled into the tube. you can put the races in the freezer and heat the steering tube to aid fitment. however when pressing you must press in straight. any twist will damage the surfaces and may ruin your frame. if as you press in it becomes twisted remove the press and genlty tap the race until it lines up again. dont allow it to twist more than 0.5mm on one side so be very careful and measure any twisting as you go.
once completed the races should sit perfectly in the steering tube. if its not right continue to press until it is. you cannot align them with the bearings so it must be perfect now.
lower race seated
we opted to cut off the steering stem race. use a dremel and cut at an angle shown. dont rush. no need to go all the way though.
this is about how long it should be and how deep.
use a screwdriver to crack the race. dont hit it hard. if it does not crack use the dremel to make the cut longer not deeper
when the race cracks it will slide off.
clean up the surfaces and install the dust cover
we have our press to install the bearing. You can try to freeze the stem and warm the bearing.Use a larger tube to tap into place.
bearing seated.
grease well
grease the race aswell.
grease top race and bearing
feed in steering stem and had tighten the preload nut . dont forget the top dust covers
The manual explains how to set the torque on the preload nut. however the All balls bearings are a different design to stock.
This is why we dont recommend you do this at home unless you know how to set the preload of this type of bering. Once preload is set and the locknut is in place you can rebuild the front end. just retrace your steps.
see part 1 (tank removal) here https://mbcustoms.eu/2021/02/02/handlebar-extension/
see part 2 (handlebar removal) here
https://mbcustoms.eu/2021/02/11/handlebar-extension-pt2-handlebar-removal/
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